Spa Buying FAQ | Lifestyles Hot Tubs

Insulation matters more in Michigan than it does in most of the country. A spa that holds 100 degree water through a January night in Fenton or Saginaw is working against a temperature difference of sixty degrees or more, and the only thing standing between your set temperature and your electric bill is the insulation package.

Full foam insulation fills the spa cabinet with polyurethane foam around the plumbing and equipment. It does several things at once: it keeps heat in, it quiets the equipment, and it physically supports the pipes so they are not flexing and stressing every time the jets kick on. That last part matters more than people expect, because pipe stress from an unsupported system is a common cause of leaks over time.

It costs more to manufacture, which is why some brands skip it to hit a lower price point. Over the life of the spa, the energy savings alone typically make up the difference, and in our climate that gap is bigger than it would be somewhere mild.

Today’s better spas include a dedicated circulation pump that runs continuously to filter the water and keep it clean, and to maintain your set temperature between heating cycles. Spas without one rely on a larger jet pump cycling on and off at low speed to do both jobs, which is a less efficient way to handle filtration and heating. A dedicated circulation pump is the more efficient design and one of the things worth asking about when you are comparing models.

No, and this is worth clearing up because the opposite is sometimes assumed.

Lifestyles has its own trained service technicians, so if anything on your spa ever needs attention, you are not relying on a third party who has never seen the model before. That is true whether your spa is fully foamed or not.

What foam insulation actually does is protect the plumbing and equipment from movement and from the elements, which prevents a lot of the leaks and premature wear we see on lesser insulated spas. A spa that skimps on insulation might be marginally easier to access for a repair, but a properly foamed spa needs far fewer repairs in the first place, and it costs less to run every month you own it. Over the life of the spa, that trade works heavily in favor of full foam.

Yes, and we recommend it. Our showrooms in Ann Arbor, Fenton, DeWitt, Novi, Rochester Hills and Saginaw keep spas filled and heated so you can try them before you decide. Bring a swimsuit and a towel, or let us know ahead of time and we will have them ready for you.

If the model you want to try is not filled at your closest location, call ahead and we will usually get one ready within a few days. Schedule a test soak at the showroom nearest you.

Yes. In fact we find year round use is best. These spas are insulated specifically to handle outdoor conditions, especially cold Michigan winters, and they are consistently rated among the top of the industry for energy efficiency.

Year round use is the norm for our customers. The majority of our winter service calls are not about spas failing in the cold. They are about spas that were left drained or unheated during a cold snap. A spa that stays running through a Michigan winter is a spa that stays healthy.

This is the number one concern people have before they buy, and it is nearly always resolved once they own one.

In our experience Michigan owners use their spas most from October through March, which is the opposite of what most people expect when they are shopping in the summer. Cold weather is when a hot tub earns its keep, and it is also when the difference between a well insulated spa and a cheap one becomes obvious. Most owners tell us they use it more, and for longer, than they thought they would.

No plumbing hookup is required for a standard aboveground portable spa. You fill it with a garden hose and drain it when it needs draining. It is entirely self contained.

Because your spa will be drained a few times a year, it helps to plan where that water goes before delivery day. Most owners run a hose to a lawn area away from the house. If your spa will sit near a foundation or on a walkout basement patio, mention it during your in home consultation and we will help you plan the drainage.

Your spa needs a level surface that can carry its filled weight, which for most models is several thousand pounds. Small and mid size spas can sit on compacted pea gravel, patio blocks or pavers as long as the base is level and well drained. Larger spas and swim spas should go on a concrete slab or an engineered deck.

In our part of Michigan there is one extra consideration, which is freeze and thaw. Ground that shifts through a Michigan winter can put a spa out of level by spring, and an out of level spa is harder on the shell and the plumbing. That is why we recommend a properly compacted gravel base or a slab rather than setting a spa directly on soil or turf.

Two practical notes before you break ground. First, Michigan law requires you to contact MISS DIG 811 at least three full working days before any digging so buried utilities can be marked, and the service is free. Second, check with your local building department about setbacks, barrier requirements and permits, since these vary between communities like Ann Arbor, Novi and Rochester Hills. Our team walks through all of this during a free in home consultation.

For most hot tubs, a four inch reinforced concrete slab or a properly compacted gravel base four to six inches deep with a level, well drained surface will do the job. For swim spas we recommend concrete in almost every case because of the weight and the length of the shell.

The reason we push harder on base preparation here than a dealer in a warm climate would is freeze and thaw. Water in the soil expands when it freezes and settles when it thaws, and over a few Michigan winters that can move an unprepared base enough to put your spa out of level. Drainage is what protects you. A base that sheds water stays stable.

Contact MISS DIG 811 at least three full working days before you dig, and check with your building department about frost depth and footing requirements for any deck or structure.

Manufacturer guidance does not set one specific measurement, but your local building department may, so it is worth a call before you finalize placement. Generally you want enough clearance for steps, roughly two feet, plus room for your cover lift system, which needs anywhere from eight inches to two feet depending on the style, and your spa needs to sit at least five feet from its electrical sub panel but no more than forty five feet away.

Our practical advice: closer is usually better. A spa that is a short walk from the back door gets used far more in a Michigan February than one across the yard.

A quality spa uses synthetic cabinetry, marine grade vinyl covers, fade resistant components and high density insulation built to handle real weather. A climate like Michigan’s, with dramatic swings between summer heat and winter cold, will find the weak points in a lesser spa within a few years. A well built spa can last twenty years or more in a Michigan backyard, weather included.

Yes, and it has become increasingly popular in basements, garages, screened porches and spare rooms. You need enough clearance to get the spa into the room, since it cannot be disassembled for the move, and you need proper ventilation.

Most indoor installations are ventilated by simply cracking a window during use. Where that is not practical, a bathroom style exhaust fan works well. One thing indoor owners in our climate should plan for is humidity, since a spa running indoors puts real moisture into the air, and Michigan homes are not always built to shed it. Talk with us about ventilation before you finalize an indoor installation, not after.

Chlorine or bromine used on their own can produce a noticeable smell indoors. Several water care systems, including salt water and biguanide based options, produce far less odor and work well in an indoor setting. When you are choosing your spa, tell us it is going indoors and we will help you pick a water care system suited to that.

Most hot tubs require a 50 amp, 240 volt circuit. Some smaller and mid size spas can run on a 115 volt, 20 amp circuit, and a few operate on 15 amp 115 volt service. Larger spas can require up to 70 amps to run all their pumps and heaters at once. We recommend waiting until you have chosen a specific model before buying a sub panel, since requirements vary by model and some come with the panel included.

In Michigan, the 240 volt circuit is work for a licensed electrician and generally requires a permit and inspection from your local municipality. Requirements differ from one community to the next, so it is worth a call to your building department early. We are happy to recommend electricians who have wired spas in your area, and we will give you the exact electrical specification for the model you choose so your electrician can quote accurately before delivery.

Usually yes, at least for the electrical work. The 240 volt circuit that feeds most spas requires a licensed electrician, a permit and an inspection in most Michigan communities. Some communities also have requirements around barriers, fencing or setbacks from property lines and structures.

Requirements vary community to community across our service area, so the reliable answer is to call your local building department before you finalize placement. We do this alongside customers regularly and can tell you what other owners in your city have run into.

Delivery day usually takes a couple of hours. Our crew brings the spa in on its side using a spa dolly, sets it on your prepared pad and levels it. What we need from you is a clear path.

The most common obstacle we run into is gate width. Most spas need a clear opening of roughly 36 inches or more depending on the model, and older neighborhoods in Ann Arbor, Rochester and Royal Oak often have narrower side yards and fences than newer subdivisions. If your access is tight, we look at removing a fence section, and if there is genuinely no ground path we arrange a crane lift. We identify all of this during your free in home consultation, well before delivery day, so there are no surprises.

Once your spa is set and your electrician has made the connection, we fill it, start it up and walk you through water care before we leave.

Timing depends on whether the model you want is in stock. Our busiest delivery period runs from late summer through the holidays, so if you want a spa running before the first cold snap, it pays to order early in the fall.

Your monthly cost comes down to three things: how well the spa is insulated, how cold it gets, and what you pay per kilowatt hour. Most of our customers are served by DTE Energy, Consumers Energy or Lansing Board of Water and Light, and Michigan rates sit on the higher side nationally, which makes insulation quality the single biggest factor in what you actually spend. If you want to compare specific models before you buy, our energy calculator will give you an estimate based on the model and your local rate.

Less than most people expect. Older sanitizing methods like straight chlorine or bromine took a fair amount of weekly attention, but current systems have changed that considerably. A salt water system generates sanitizer automatically and needs far less hands on work, and other modern water care products help keep the plumbing clean and water balanced with just a few minutes of testing a week.

For most owners, ongoing maintenance is a quick weekly test and an occasional filter rinse, with a deeper clean a few times a year. For the full picture on water care systems and what fits your spa, see our Sanitizing Systems FAQ.

Hot tub covers can be bulky, especially solo. Manufacturers have addressed this with cover lift systems in a range of styles to fit different space constraints, and most owners find that once they have the right lift for their setup, it becomes a one handed job.

One Michigan specific tip: brush snow off your cover rather than letting it accumulate and freeze. A cover carrying wet snow is much heavier to lift, and repeated freezing shortens the life of the vinyl.

Yes. We take trade ins on qualifying spas and apply the credit toward your new one, which also saves you the job of hauling the old tub away yourself. Value depends on the age, brand and condition of your current spa. Send us the details through our trade in page and we will give you a number.

Yes, with approved credit. We regularly run promotional financing, including extended zero percent terms during select events. Current offers are listed on our promotions page, and our financing page walks through the application process. Many customers find that a monthly payment on a well insulated spa, plus its operating cost, still comes in below what they were spending on regular massage appointments or a gym membership.